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But in the extremes of Mongolia's outback he's as tough as boot leather. from Harvard in Sanskrit and Tibetan studies and has been a practicing Buddhist for nearly 25 years, pursuing a rigorous tantric discipline called Dzogchen.He could be a model for Indiana Jones, right down to his beat-up Stetson fedora. Sardar's explorations have taken him to the far corners of Tibet and Mongolia to investigate occult mysteries of Central Asia's supernatural landscapes.Anyone roaming around in Mongolia's vast and forbidden Ulaan Taiga can reasonably be assumed to be either a smuggler, a livestock rustler, or a bandit, and probably well armed.The lawless wilderness, whose name loosely translates as "Red Forest," sprawls along the northwestern frontier with Russian Tuva.Today the Tsaatan's ancestral homeland—as much a physical realm as a parallel spirit world known to shamans as "the Dark Heavens"—is a perilous no-man's-land where shootouts between mounted rangers and Tuvan desperadoes occur regularly, particularly along a notorious trail that intersects the border at a sacred mountain called Uma Tolgoi. We would be a large team of 23 people and 38 horses under the leadership of Hamid Sardar-Afkhami, a rakish 44-year-old Iranian-American scholar and documentary filmmaker who divides his time between Mongolia and Paris.Cosmopolitan and well-connected, Sardar grew up in privileged circumstances in the Shah's Iran and, after his family fled the 1979 Iranian revolution, in France and the Unites States, attending prep school at Choate Rosemary Hall, in Connecticut.

The expedition he proposed was a challenging two-week pack trip, starting at his isolated camp west of Lake Hovsgol, in a valley where the grasslands rise up to meet the taiga (alpine forests).Indeed, Mongolia is becoming the Patagonia of Central Asia.You can spend six grand for a week's fly-fishing on the Uur River or ,500 to play polo at a deluxe camp near the ancient capital city of Karakorum.As a finale, we'd celebrate back at Sardar's camp with cigars, cognac, hot baths, and massages before heading home, cleansed of our neuroses and possessing clear vision."The ingredients are gathering to make this either one of the greatest or strangest expeditions to a sacred mountain," Sardar e-mailed me in the run-up to the trip, "especially since we will have no real guide except for a little shaman who bears an uncanny resemblance to a jovial Gollum." Our day-to-day plans were likely to "change completely," he warned.But to my mind there was one certainty: Venturing into the Ulaan Taiga would complete a journey I'd started 20 years earlier, when dispatched me to a newly emerging Mongolia to explore the last best frontier in adventure travel.

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